Гбпоу «чттлп» Сборник технических текстов по английскому языку по оборудованию швейного производства Разработал: Сапожникова Е. Л
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ГБПОУ «ЧТТЛП» Сборник технических текстов по английскому языку по оборудованию швейного производства Разработал: Сапожникова Е.Л. 2013 г. 1.PIPED POCKET PRODUCTION WITHOUT FLAP Microprocessor-controlled automatic piping unit with a Pfaff 1422-732 two-needle high-speed lockstitch seamer with large hooks, middle knife, thread trimmer, piping folding station, miter-cutting system and feeding clamp with infinite length adjustment (50 to 180 mm). Can also be equipped with belt-loop clamp and stacker. With this sewing unit it is possible to make piped pockets for trousers (single or double piping). Economical operation (shown by the example of a piped pocket with pouch): after loading and positioning of the workpiece, the piping strip and pocket pouch or facing strip, the function sequence is set off by a foot switch. Beginning and end of seam are accurately detected and can be programmed with single backtack, double backtack or stitch condensation. Middle knife and mitre knives set themselves automatically to the pre-selected seam length. Four different seam lengths can be selected.
Maximum sewng speed: 2,000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 2.4 mm Standard needle gauge: 12mm. Words:
2.SEWING FACINGS TO POCKET POUCHES Automatic short-seamer with Pfaff 5483 two-thread chain-stitch sewing head, stitch condensation, thread monitor, microprocessor control, folding station and small-part stacker. For folding and stitching facings onto pocket pouches on trousers. The operative loads the pocket pouches, the unit folds them over automatically, feeds them to the sewing station, and stacks the finished parts.
This automatic machine is also available with a Pfaff 483-G-6/01-900/99 lockstitch sewing head. Output: roughly 4500 pocket facings in trouser fronts in eight hours. Maximum sewing speed: 4,600 s.p.m. Stitch length: 4mm. Words: facing – отделка, обтачка two-thread chain-stitch – двухлинейный цепной стежок control - управление folding station – устройство для подгибания и установки small-part stacker – штабелеукладчик для мелких деталей load - вкладывать unit - агрегат to feed – подавать, направлять to stack – складывать пачку versatile - возможность application – применение 3. PIPED POCKET PRODUCTION WITHOUT FLAP Microprocessor-controlled automatic piping unit with a Pfaff 1422-732 two-needle high-speed lockstitch seamer with large hooks, middle knife, thread trimmer, piping folding station, miter-cutting system and feeding clamp with infinite length adjustment (50 to 180 mm). Can also be equipped with belt-loop clamp and stacker. With this sewing unit it is possible to make piped pockets for trousers (single or double piping). Economical operation (shown by the example of a piped pocket with pouch): after loading and positioning of the workpiece, the piping strip and pocket pouch or facing strip, the function sequence is set off by a foot switch. Beginning and end of seam are accurately detected and can be programmed with single backtack, double backtack or stitch condensation. Middle knife and mitre knives set themselves automatically to the pre-selected seam length. Four different seam lengths can be selected.
Maximum sewng speed: 2,000 s.p.m. Stitch length: 2.4 mm Standard needle gauge: 12mm. Words: piped pocket – прорезной карман в рамку flap - клапан lockstich - челночный hook – челнок knife - нож thread trimmer – устройство для обрезания ниток piping folding station – устройство для подгибания обтачки mitre-cutting system – режущее устройство для надсекания уголков кармана feeding clamp – зажим для транспортировки infinite length adjustment – плавная регулировка single or double piping – одинарная или двойная обтачка pouch – подкладка кармана workpiece – обрабатываемая деталь facing strip – подзор foot switch - педаль single backtack, double backtack – двойная (одинарная) закрепка stitch condensation – уплотнение стежков mitre knives – ножи для надрезания уголков кармана to be selected - устанавливаться folding clamp – зажим для подгибания manual loading – ручная установка to overlap - совмещать seam reliability – прочность шва quality - качество output - производительность sewing speed – скорость шитья s.p.m. - стежков в минуту 4.PFAFF 3834-1/11 Programmed sleeve setting. Integrated sewing unit with a Pfaff 1297 lockstich postbed sewing machine with drop feed and variable top feed, large vertical hook, top-driven gathering mechanism, thread trimmer, needle positioning system, automatic presser foot lift, microprocessor control SENSEWMAT III and detachable table. Sleeve setting on jackets, costumes and coats is greatly rationalized with this workplace.
Maximum sewing speed: 2,100 s.p.m., depending on material and operation. Maximum stitch length: 3mm. Max. gathered stitch length: 6 mm. Words: Setting - втачивание drop feed – нижний транспортер variable top feed – регулируемый верхний транспортер detachable table – приставной стол (дополнительная плоскость) output - производительность gathered stitch length – длина стежка для сборки. 5.PFAFF 3540-3/02 + MONO 85 Sewing on buttons automatically. Button sewing unit with a Pfaff 3306 single-thread chainstitch cycling machine with thread trimmer, electronic selector system for button spacing and quantity, EAG Mono 85 button feeder, EAG speed regulator for infinite adjustment of sewing speed, feeding plate with folding station, tabulator and stacker. For sewing buttons on shirts and blouses automatically. For two- and four-hole buttons from 10 to 32 line with 14 stitches.
Maximum sewing speed: 1,800 s.p.m. (3306) Words: chainstitch – цепной стежок thread trimmer – устройство для обрезания ниток infinite adjustment – бесступенчатая регулировка feeding plate with folding station – устройство для выдавливания (материала) spacings - расстояние to overlap - совмещение stepping motor – шаговый привод feed band – транспортер 6.PFAFF 3568 – 1/12 Freely programmable shirt-pocket setting. Microprocessor-controlled pocket setter with retractable Pfaff 483 high-speed lockstitch sewing head, loading and folding station, integrated diagnosis display, piece counter and stacker. A modern microprocessor-controlled pocket setter for shirts, blouses and pyjamas, especially suitable for work on striped and checked fabrics. Here are just a few of its advantages:
Machine output 1 up to 8 pockets per minute. Words: Shirt-pocket setting – настрачивание карманов на сорочки loading and folding station – устройство укладывания и подгибания diagnosis display – индикатор ошибок piece counter – счетчик числа изделий stacker - штабелеукладчик 7.PFAFF 2161/1 Gorge seams, and sleeve linings to hems on jackets. Automatic short-seamer with a Pfaff 483-G lockstitch sewing head with horizontal hook with large bobbin capacity, thread trimmer, microprocessor control and stacker. For sewing gorge seams on jackets (open method). The input programs are called up at the programming workplace. Also for sewing sleeve linings to hems, with or without seam margin.
Words: Gorge - зеркальный lining - подкладка horizontal hook – горизонтальный челнок large bobbin capacity – увеличенная вместимость шпульки input - заданный hem – кромка, срез seam margin – подгибка шва 8.PFAFF 3546-1/12 Waistband pleats and darts in trousers. Automatic short-seamer with Pfaff 483-G high-speed lockstitch sewing head with large sewing hook, thread trimmer, backtacking system or stitch condensation (optional), thread monitor, microprocessor control and clamp stand. For top-stitching waistband pleats at different pleat depths and lengths. For sewing darts with different dart depths and lengths.
Maximum sewing speed: 4600 s.p.m. Stitch length:4 mm. Words: Waistband pleat - складка dart - вытачка short-seamer – короткошовный автомат backtacking system – устройство для закрепления стежков thread monitor - нитенаблюдатель clamp stand – зажимной кронштейн depth – глубина utilization - разгрузка owing to application flexibility – в связи с гибкостью применения advantage - достоинство shift-free sewing – шитье без смещения clamp strip - зажимная планка 9.PFAFF 1422 Single – and two-needle edge stitching. Special two-needle high-speed lockstitch seamer with compuond feed, large vertical hooks, disengagable needle bars – 720/04, special foot with spring-loaded edge guide – 113/02, thread trimmer – 906/09, thread wiper – 909/02 and integrated edge program system with automatic presser foot – and backtacking system 970/02. For all two-needle fancy seam on edges and for setting pockets on sportswear, work-wear and casual wear.
For other significant advantages of the Pfaff 1420 Series. Maximum sewing speed: 4,000. Needle gauge: 2,4 to 8 mm (in other subclass versions up to 20 mm). Maximum stitch length: 6 mm (N). Thread sizes: up to 40/3. Words: edge stitching -окантовочные работы vertical hooks – вертикальный челнок foot - лапка spring-loaded edge – подпружиненный направитель кромки thread trapper – регулятор натяжения ниток backtacking system – закрепочное устройство fancy seam - декоративный шов placed stitches - целевые стежки 10.PFAFF 3849-1/01 Sewing on and closing pocket pouches – tacking opening with basting stitches. Integrated sewing unit with a Pfaff 483 ultra-high-speed lockstitch seamer with drop feed, thread trimmer automatic presser foot lift, backtacking system, thread tension control and Variocontrol V 231 input unit. For sewing outside jacket pockets accurately and economically; an operation previously requiring two workplaces. 1. Sew pocket pouch to bottom and top piping. 2. Close pocket pouch at side, with start- and finish backtack. 3. Close pocket opening with basting stitches. A further application is that of sewing pleats in skirts. - Problem-free switchover from assembly seam to basting by special thread tension control. - Flexible application with different pocket sizes by sensor control. - Simple programming of the required data, such as seam length or number of tacking stitches, on a modern programming unit. With the Variocontrol V231 it is also possible to transfer the stored seam programs to an external memory cassette which is inserted in the unit. This makes it possible to achieve as many seam programs as required and download them to the Variocontrol V231 again when needed. Maximum sewing speed: 5,000 s.p.m. Maximum stitch length: 3 mm (basting stitch: 6 mm). Words: Tacking opening – застрачивание входа в карман basting stitches – прихватывающие стежки drop feed – нижний транспортер foot lift – прижимная лапка thread tension control – контроль натяжения ниток start- and finish backtack – начальная и конечная закрепки assembly seam – стачивающий шов sensor control — управляющий фотоэлемент (сенсорный контроль) 11.TEXTILE FIBERS All the materials used in the manufacture of clothing are known to be called textiles. They are made of either long or short fibers. These fibers can be felted together or made into a continuous thread or yarn and then woven or knitted. So from beginning to end in the production of felt, in the spinning of a very coarse thread or in the weaving of the finest silk cloth the whole process of textile manufacture consists of the combination of fibre with fibre. No material is more common in the world than fibres; it is the form of all vegetables and most animal substances. To be suitable for textile purposes a fibre must possess certain properties and qualities such as length, strength, cohesiveness, elasticity and many others. There are many different fibres now in use, principal among them being wool, silk, cotton, flax. These fibres have come to us from prehistoric times and are natural fibres. Today numerous chemical fibres are the achievements of the development of science of the 20th century. According to their origin the fibres may be divided into vegetables ones (cotton, flax), fibres of animal origin (wool, silk) and chemical or man-made fibres (rayon, capron, nylon, etc.). Words: fibers - волокно thread - нить yarn - пряжа substance - вещество cloth - ткань man-made - искусственный origin – происхождение 12.COTTON Cotton fabrics are known to be used thousands of years ago. There are two reasons for the popularity of cotton – its low price and its versatility. Cotton being one of the most versatile fibres is used for dresses, underwear, hosiery, blankets, curtains, upholstery, airplane, fabrics, etc. Under the microscope the cotton fibre appears to be a flattened tube with many twists along its length. Because of the natural twist, cotton fibres may be easily spun into yarn. By the way some cotton fibres having no natural twist are subjected to the process of mercerisation and fabric to be obtained is called mercerised cotton. Cotton has a high tensile strength. It consists 90 per cent cellulose and it burns very quickly in a manner similar to paper. The cotton fibres conduct heat much more easily than animal fibres do and they have a low electric conductivity. That is why cotton is wound some electric wires. Cotton has a natural creamy-white colour. It absorbs water slowly and dries slowly. Cotton doesn't take dyes so well as the animal fibres do. No special care is needed in laundering cotton. Cotton fibres are not elastic. Batiste, chintz, damask, marquisette, muslin, organdy, poplin, rep and others are made of cotton. Words: Cotton - хлопок fabric - ткань hosiery – чулочный товар twist – кручение, переплетение natural – природный, натуральный strength – прочность 13.LINEN The word linen comes from the word “lin” meaning “flax”. Linen, obtained from the flax plants, is, perhaps, the oldest of all the woven materials used for clothing, and it is still best for strength. The linen fiber is derived from the inner bark of the fibre flax plant. It is made up of bundles of colourless, tapering cells. The fibres are constructed with pointed ends. Under the microscope flax looks like a bamboo cane. It is stronger than cotton. Like cotton, flax consists chiefly of cellulose. Linen absorbs water readily and dries more quickly than any other fibre. Linen feels smooth, cool, and has a beautiful natural lustre. It is free from lint and doesn't stain easily. Bacteria do not live readily on it. These hygienic qualities make linen more adaptable for surgical use. It is a good conductor of heat because air penetrates it readily. However, linens have little affinity for dyes and they crush and wrinkle very easily. The problem of dying has been solved, and the range of colours has been increased. It took not very much time. Linen fabrics may be made into table linens, laces, sheeting, toweling, clothing, sewing threads, shoe threads, etc. Because of its strength, good quality linen is a very durable fibre and will wear long. It is readily refreshed by washing, and ironing can be done at a some what higher temperature that cotton. Words: Linen - лён obtain - получать natural lustre – природный блеск affinity - свойство crush - мяться durable - прочный 14.SILK The silk industry originated in China, where its secrets were guarded jealously. Silk is a natural fibre, it is long, smooth and strong. The elasticity of silk helps to keep the fabrics from wrinkling and makes the materials drape well. The silk filament is from 300 yards to 850 yards long. This naturally helps in the spinning of the yarn into the finished product of fabric. Silk being a long, smooth filament does not soil easily. It is a delight to wear it because of its lightness and smooth surface. Silk is the most durable and the strongest textile known. Owing to the length of its fibres, silk sheds dirt and bacteria very easily. Since this textile ranks next to wool as a non-conductor of heat, it is excellent for warmth. The beautiful appearance of silk fabrics, their lustre, and their affinity for dyes, all help to make them suitable for people with fine tastes. Silk may be laundered or dry-cleaned in the same way as other fabrics are. White silk, however, will turn yellow from strong soaps. Therefore in washing white silk use soft water and plenty of lukewarm suds. The uses of silk are varied as its advantages, as may be seen by a glance over the following list: women's dresses, blouses, shirts, hats, ribbons, hosiery, bathing suits, typewriter ribbons, etc. Words: silk - шелк filament - волокно durable - прочный affinity - свойство smooth – гладкость 15.WOOL Wool was used for clothing thousands of years ago. If we look around, we shall see how many people wear wool in one form or another – dresses, coats, overcoats, cardigans and many other articles. In the twentieth century the use of wool began to spread to the Far East where previously only silk and cotton were used. Everybody knows wool to be used in warm and tropical countries as well as cold ones, because it has a wonderful power of absorbing moisture and keeping the skin dry. But what is wool? It is known to be a kind of hair found on sheep, differing from other hair in being crimpy, curly and soft. Through a microscope the wool fibre appears to be wavy and to have tiny overlapping scales. Wool is the most elastic fibre and it resists wrinkles and creases. It is thermostatic and its fibres act as a natural regulator of body temperature. This thermostatic action protects against heat as well as against cold. Wool is also absorbent and porous being fire-resistant and resilient. This is an important reason why wool fabrics hold their shape, drape gracefully, do not wrinkle easily and are easy to care for. Wool is divided into two main classes which are determined by the length of the fibres. Combing or long-staple wools are those with fibres 2 ½ inches in length used in the manufacture of worsteds. Short-staple wools include all those fibres less than 2 ½ inches length. These are used in the manufacture of woolens. Worsted fabrics have a special lustre and clear-cut surface which gives them a distinctly smart appearance. In order to produce this smooth surface only the best and the longest wool fibres can be used. The worsteds cost more than the woolens. Worsted stands hard wear on account of high tensile strength, due to long fibres and the twist in the yarn. Being elastic worsted holds its shape perfectly well. Words: wool - шерсть spread - распространяться absorb - поглощать moisture - влажность dry - сухой skin - кожа crimpy - извилистый fire-resistant – не горючий 16.RAYON Because silk was desirable but costly, many attempts were made to create it artificially. The most popular way of manufacturing rayon is by the viscose process. Rayon is known to be a man-made fibre. It is composed of wood pulp which is a form of cellulose converted into a thread formation by means of chemical and mechanical processes. Rayon is a textile yarn or thread made by forcing a liquid solution of cellulose through a spinneret and coagulating it as a solid fibre. The smooth slippery surface of rayon is resistant to friction. Other fabrics do not stick to rayon. This makes it particularly desirable for underwear. Rayon is more resistant to respiration than other fibres. It absorbs perspiration, keeping the skin dry and comfortable. Rayon does not provide a favourable medium for the growth of bacteria. Rayons are not so strong as silks. It has less elasticity than silk and it creases more easily. In order to overcome this defect resins are added. Rayon is now of unquestionable importance in the fabric world. It is used to supplement the defects of the materials such as cotton, linen, wool. And give them a new style significanse, as for example when it is combined with linen to make it less crushable. Rayon fabrics take dyes just as well as cotton. Rayon turns up in hosiery, sport and dress fabrics, tablecloths and linings. Words: rayon - вискоза desirable - подходящий costly – дорогой, ценный attempt – проба, опыт compose - составлять solution – решение, объяснение 17.SYNTHETICS In the mid-twentieth century man had found out how to make a fabric out of coal, air and water. Nylon is one of the synthetics. Nylon is a fibre in which the very molecules composing it are man-made. It is a true synthetic. Nylon is composed of four elements: carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen. The basic raw materials are a hydrocarbon obtained from coal, petroleum, or natural gas; nitrogen and oxygen from the air; and hydrogen from water. The process of nylon's treatment is complex. All above mentioned substances are treated so that they form a solution which is forced through tiny holes in the spinneret. Nylon is smooth, strong, elastic and light in weight. It absorbs very little moisture and dries quickly. Nylon is known to be used for hosiery, undergarments and some dresses. Fabrics made of nylon do not need to be pressed so often. The introduction of the man-made fibres has brought a multiplicity of new names. Words: compose - составлять carbon - углерод hydrogen - водород nitrogen - азот oxygen - кислород spinneret - прядение 18.KNITTED FABRICS Knitted fabrics are becoming increasingly popular because they do not stretch out of shape. Knitted materials are durable, they are light-weight, warm, comfortable, elastic are do not wrinkle easily; so they are especially suited for sports wear. Knitting is a process of constructing fabric with one or more groups of yarns by a system of interlooping loops of the yarns. The yarns are formed into rows of loops into which other yarn loop rows are interlooped. They are two basic types of knitting, welt and warp. Welt knit fabrics are produced by constructing the yarn loops horizontally across the width of the fabric. Warp knitting constructs the width of the fabric. Warp knitting constructs the fabrics by making yarn loops parallel to the fabric length. Welt knit fabrics are produced in tubular or flat-form circular knitting, whereas warp knit fabrics are made only in flat form. The major types of structures in knitted fabrics used for apparel products may be outlines as follows: a) welt knitted fabrics, circular and flat forms: jersey, run-resist; b) warp knitted fabrics. Words: knitted fabric - трикотаж stretch out - растягиваться loop - петля row - ряд welt – обшивка, кайма warp - основа width - ширина length – длина |
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